TT 520 
.U44 
Copy 1 



WELANDER'S 

COMBINATION SYSTEM 



BASED UPON 



Practical, Sure and Simple Methods, 

Giving the Exact Balance and Proportions for 
Each and Every Type and Form. 



A. W. WELANDER, 

CHICAGO, ILLS. 



CjPyRIGHT APPLIED FOR BY A. W. WeL.ANDER. 




ILL US TRA TED B Y FO UR TEEN PL A TES, WITH FULL INS TR UC- 

TIONS FOR DRAFTING THE VARIOUS STYLES OF 

GENTLEMEN S AND LADIES' GARMENTS. 



Published by A. W. Welander. 



(> 



./v 



MlO-9AS6> U.u-£'s/'J 



- i8g 

"n^i^ (S-ertifie^, That 

of. , -.. - has paid $10.00 for 

has paid $ for full course of instruction 

one copy of "Welander's Perfected Combination System," the same to be 
07ily for his OWN PERSONAL USE atid is NOT TRANSFERABLE in any 

shape or manner. All rights reserved. 

3V. "X)^. "X)^ clause vfo 

No. A UTHOR. 



<^- 



Preface 



C^ S I bavo been having great success iu cutting for several years, I take pleasure in intro- 
W^Y ducing my method to othei's. This method is founded on practical experience — 
from daily practice for many years. I have, as you see on opposite page, learned 
systems in endless variety, with and without diplomas. Some of which I have no 
books CD, or records of, to show at present, but I have given one and all a thorough study 
before laying tliera aside. I have found some very good and some very weak in jjoints. There 
has been too much guess work about some of them. By exchanging ideas with all men who 
have published these works on garment cutting, I have at last founded my own, and for several 
years in daily practice used the same for gentlemen's and ladies' cutting with great success. 
Cutting is a branch of art, and it takes styles and taste to be an up-to-date cutter. And 
next you must be rapid and sure at your work. To do this it takes a method that there is no 
guess work about, one that gives the cutter an accurate, balanced and well-fitting garment. 
And by this method I claim you can cut garments in less time than by any one I ever saw 
published. The diagrams illustrating the jjrinciples set forth have been drawn by myself, per- 
fected and simplified with the utmost care and are so plain that anyone giving them careful 
study will find them the most reliable ever published on garment cutting for both sexes. 

In conclusion, let all those who intend to study and practice these new principles, lay 
aside all others while using these and the most successful method of cutting will be yours. 

Yours Truly, 

THE AUTHOR. 



Index 



PAGE 

How to Take the Measure, - - - - - 7 

How to Draft the Pants, .... - 9 

How to Draft the Vest, - - - - - - 11 

How to Draft a Frock Coat, ----- 13 

How to Draft a Coat for Humpback Mai:, - - - - 15 

Coat and Vest cut from one Draft, - - - - 17 

How to Draft the Sleeve, - - - - - 19 

Additioual Explanations of Diagrams, - - - 20 

Practical Remarks from Daily Practice, - - - - 21 

How to Draft a Ladies' Waist, - . . _ 23 

Diagram for Ladies' Sleeve, - - - - - 25 

Unusual Trousers Pockets, ----- 26 

A Lay-Out for a Sack Suit, ----- 27 

Directions for Making a Canvas, - - - - - 28 

The Correct Way to Run Lines in Padding Coat and Lapel, - 29 

How to Prepare an Edge for a Stitched Coat, - - - 30 

Work on Cutting, - - - - - - 31 

Terms for Instructions, ----- 32 



(7) 



Explanation for Measuring. 



,h 





The measure is the first thing to take in getting the custom- 
er's shape and form, and should be taken with care. Never be 
careless in taking the measure. 

1 to 2 is strap measure, giving the man's stooping or erect 
form, and should be taken natural, neither loose nor tight, but 
fairly snug. 

1 around in front at 2 to 1 is upper shoulder measure. Take 
this natural, neither tight nor loose. 

3 around in front at 2 to 3 is lower shoulder measure. Always 
take this snug. 

4 is around breast. Never take this measure snug, but natural 
on an ordinary figure. But on a fat man take it fairly snug. 

5 is around waist. Do not take this loose, but snug on an 
ordinary figure, and easy on a fat man. 

6 is around seat; take easy for the coat, and snug for pants. 

2 to 9 is length of sleeve taken with square. 

The above measure is for coat, and is taken over the vest for 
a coat, and over coat for an overcoat. 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR VEST MEASUREMENT. 

Vest measure is taken same as coat, except a little snugger, 
as the vest is always cut i inch smaller than coat measure. 

H to I is first button on vest; H to bottom full length of vest; 
L around breast; M around waist; strap and shoulder measure 
are taken the same as for undercoat. 



DIRECTIONS FOR PANTS MEASUREMENT. 

N is around waist. Take as customers wants it — loose or 
snug or natural. 

P is around largest part of seat, taken snug, not tight. 

Measure around knee and bottom width desired. 

K. to S is full length in inside seam. 

N down to is from hip to sole of heel on shoe. 

Take your inside measure good length always. 

Take outside to suit customer — high waist or short waist. 



DIAGRAM I. 




S R 4 T 



(0) 



Diagram i. 



HOW TO DRAFT THE PANTS. 



32 Waist. 

38 Seat. 



FOREPART OF PANTS. 

Draw line from D to H and D to T. 

K to O is I of seat measure on division. 

O to I ^ of seat on division. 

Go back ^ inch and forwards JJ inch at I. 

Go forward ^ inch at O. 

B is half way between K and I. 

Draw line to 4. 

4 to T is 4 inches. 

4 to E is 4 inches. 
Draw line R to back of I § inch. 
Shape from I half way to knee, as shown. 
O to 9 is J of seat on division. 
H to A is l-(i of seat. 
A to 8 is !-(). 
H to D is ^ of waist measure on division. 

5 to V is :^ of knee measure on division. 

Draw line from T to V and V to K. 

Shape from H to 1) and I, as shown; also 
at D. 

This finishes forepart for the pnnts. 



18i Knee. 42 Oatside. 

17^ Bottom. 32 Inside. 

BACKPART OF PANTS. 

Place front part on your paper or cloth, as 
you may prefer to cut. 

Draw line at H, Z, N and S. 

Draw these lines across. 

Measure from H to D and 8 to 6, ^ of waist 
measure, and 1 inch for seams. 

9 to 3 is same as from 9 to O. 

Measure 9 to K and 3 to X, | of seat meas- 
ure, and 2 inches. 

I to Z is 1-12 of seat measure on division. 

Measure from M to V, and N to P, width of 
knee, and 1 inch for seams. 

Go out same at both sides, V to P as M to N. 

Measure from R to T and S to 7, width 
around bottom wanted. 

Draw line from 8 to 9 and P to X. 

Shape as shown on diagram, and the draft 
is finished. 

FOR A FAT MAN. 

Take out at X if too wide for measure. 

Go in from line to D -^ inch and then forward 
at H, ^ of waist on division. 

Then shape from H to 9, as usual. 

Go up at H 1-16 of seat if customer is very 
fat and measure as taken in outside seam. 
This is only for very fat men. 



DIAGRAM 2. 




ai) 



Diagram 2. 



HOW TO DRAFT THE VEST. 



Draw line from A to 12. and A to E. 

A to C is I3 of upper shoulder measure on division. 

B is half way between A and C. 

C to O is I'a ot lower shoulder measure. 

I is % back of O. 

C to K is '.J of breast measure. 

K to 17 is 2 inches for seams. 

Draw lines B, C, O, K, and 17 to 12. 

A to 2 is ig of breast, with addition. 

7 to 2 is 3g inch. 

Go below line J4 inch at A. 

P to L is 1-6 of breast, with addition from K to 17. 

Draw line from 7 to I. crossing B line at 3. 

Draw line from 3 to M. 

3 to 4 is 1 inch on vest and 1}^ on coat. 

4 to 5 is 1 inch; shape from 2 to 5. 

Measure from A to 2 and O to L, length of strap, 
and 14 inch added. 

Draw line from L to B. 

L to Q is the same as from 2 to .5. 

Go under line at Q on a vest; also for a fat man's 
coat. 

Shape as shown in diagram from 5 to Q. 

Go under O at ](» 1 inch, and in front of O line ;>,j 
inch. 



Now draw line from 17 to V. 

Go out }4 inch at V and then draw line to R. 

D is natural waist. 

Go in ?4 inch at D, and draw line to A. 

D to E is 3 inches. 

6 to 9 is 3 inches. 

6 to D line is J^ waist and 1 inch. 

Z to V line is }4 waist and 1 inch. 

Take out between Z and 6, the difference. 

Measure A to 2 and G to 17, opening of vest, and 
add 1 inch. 

And down to R full length, and 1>^ inch for a stitch 
and 1 inch, for bound vests. 

Shape front as shown. 

Now I will e.Yplain 18. This is for a fat man, or a 
man being less than i inches smaller over waist 
than breast. Add }^ of every inch he is larger 
over the waist than proportion, and add balance 
in side. 

Add from V line to 18, and draw line from 17 to 18, 
and 18 down. It a man is very fat, take out at Z 
1-24 of waist, but add seams between at Z, 
and add at bottom what you take out at Z. To 
make back and front same length, back should 
always be .^s inch longer at 9. This finishes the 
vest draft. 



DIAGRAM 3. 




(13) 



Diagram 3. 



HOW TO DRAFT THE FROCK COAT. 



Draw line from A to 12, and A to F, 

A to C is I3 of upper shoulder measure on division. 

B is half way between A and C. 

C to O is % of lower shoulder measure. 

I is ?4 inch back of O. 

C to K is }4 of breast measure. 

K to 17 is 2 inches for seams. 

17 to 18 is 1% to 2 inches on single breasted, and 2J., 
to 5 inches on a double breasted coat. 

Draw lines B, C, O, K, and 17 to 12. 

A to 2 is ig of breast, with addition from K to 17. 

7 to 2 is 'g inch. 

P to L is 1-6 of breast, with addition. 

Draw line from 7 to I, crossing B line at 3. This 
gives exact width of back. 

Draw line from 3 to M. 

3 to 4 is 13^ inch. 

4 to 5 is ig of breast, with addition. 

Shape from 2 to 4, and 4 to 5; take out =,, inch be- 
tween 5 and G. 

Measure from A to 2, and O to L, length of strap 
and % inch added. 

Draw line from L to B. 

L to Q is the same as from 2 to 4. 

Shape is shown at G and around armhole;goin front 
of line at O J^ inch, and under line C at I "g inch. 

A to B is natural waist, D to E is 1:'4 inch. 



A to F is full length. 

Go in '^4 inch at E; from D to 6 is ig of breast, with 
addition; take out 1^4 inch between 6 and N, 
and "a inch between 10 and 11. 

N to 10 is y^ of breast, no addition. 

Go out \i inch at V. 

Draw line from 17 to V, and V to W. 

Sweep from 1 to W by Li. 

Shape draft as shown. 

TO DRAPT THE SKIRT. 

E to 13 is 91^ inches. 

1 to 9 is i-o inch. 

Measure width of back, and from K line back to 13 is 
J3 of seat and 1 inch added. 

Shape top to W; go below line J4 inch at W. 

Draw line from 13 down; shape from sidebody to 13 
down. 

Shape front from upper 18 to 8. This finishes the 
draft. 

Now I will e.xplain 19. V to 19 is .^^ of every inch the 
measure is over proportion, which is 4 inches less 
over waist than breast measure. Whatever a cus- 
tomer measures more over the waist than propor- 
tion, add I3' of every inch, and draw line from 
upper 18 to 19, and 19 down. Add balance of meas- 
ure between 10 and 11, and 6 and N. This will cut 
a perfect garment for a corpulent man. 



DIAGRAM 4. 




(15) 



Diagram 4. 



How to Draft a Coat for a Humpback Man. 

DRAFT AS BELOW. This is drafted the same as any other coat except at the 

neck and the back. 



A SINGLE BREASTED FOURBUTTON AND DOUBLE BREASTED SACK. 



Draw line from A to 12. and A to F. 

A to O is I3 of upper shoulder measure. 

B is J2 way between A and C. 

C to O is J^ of lower shoulder measure. 

I is % inch back of O. 

C to K is I3 of breast measure. 

K to 17 is 2 inches for seams. 

17 to 18 is 11^ to 2 inches on single breasted, and 17 
to 20 is 2% to 5 inches on double breasted. 

Draw lines B, C, O, K and 17 to 12. 

A to Z is 1-12 of breast, no addition. 

Z to 2 is ig of breast, with addition from K to 17. 

7 to 2 is 5(i inch. 

P to L is 1-6 of breast, with addition. 

Draw line from 7 to I, crossing B line at 3. 

Draw line from 3 to M. 

3 to 4 isljq inch. 

Draw line from B to I. 

Shape from 2 to 4, and 4 to 5. 

Take out ■'g inch between 5 and G. 

Measure from Z to 2 and O to L, length of strap, and 
% inch added. 

Draw line from L to B. 

L to Q is the same as from 2 to 4. 



Shape as shown at Q and around armhole to G; go 
in front of line at O }4 inch, and under C line at 
I "g inch. 

Z to R is sharpest point on hump. 

D is natural waist. 

F is full length. 

D to 6 is I3 of breast, no addition. 

6 to 13 is 8 inches. 

Measure from E to 1.3, and K line back to 13. is % ot 
seat and 1 inch added. 

Place tape at 5 to 9 and then at G. 

Sweep back to 8, and sweep 8 by L over in front. 

Shape from G to 13 down to 8. 

Go out 3i inch at V. 

Draw line from 17 to V and V down. 

Shape front as shown for single and double breasted 
coats. Overcoats are cut the very same way in 
front and back only larger, as the measure for 
overcoats are used larger for same man. 

Take out a seam under arm down to pocket or take 
out *3 inch extra at G and M. 

Pocket is 12 inches below armhole or 6 inches above 
full length of sleeve, from bottom of sleeve up- 
wards to armhole. 



DIAQRAH 5. 




(17) 



Diagram 5. 



Showing Coat and Vest Cut from same Draft. 



Draw line from A to 12, and A to F. 

A to C is I3 of upper shoulder measure. 

B IS half way between A and C. 

C to O is }^ of lower shoulder measure. 

I is 'i^ inch back of O. 

C to K is % of breast measure. 

K to 17 is 2 inches for seams. 

17 to 18 is II/3 to 2 inches on single breasted, and 2}^ 
to 5 on double breasted. 

Draw lines B, O, O, K, and 17 to 12. 

A to 2 is 'a of breast, with addition from K to 17. 

7 to 2 IS ^1) inch. 

P to L is 1 G of breast, with addition. 

Draw line from 7 to I, crossing B line at 3. 

Draw line from 3 to M. 

3 to 1 is II4 inch. 

Draw line from B to I. 

Shape from 2 to 4, and 4 to 5. 

Take out ^3 inch between 5 and G. 

Measure from A to 2 and O to L, length of strap, and 
1^ inch added. 

Draw line from L to B. 

L to Q is the same as from 2 to 4. 

Shape as shown at Q and around armhole to G line. 

Go in front of line at O }o inch, and under C line 
at I '3 inch. 

D is natural waist. 

F is full length. 

Draw lines D and F, go inside line at D ^^ inch, and 
draw line to A, and shape down to bottom 
coming out to line at F, less % inch. 

Draw line down in front at K. 



Go out Yi inch at V and draw line from 17 to V and 
from V down. 

6 to 13 is 8 inches. 

Measure from E to 13, and K line back to 13, is i.j of 
seat and 1 inch added. 

Place tape at 5 to 9, and then at G. 

Sweep back to 8, and sweep 8 by L, over in front. 

Shape from G to 13 down to 8. 

Shape front from upper X'i to bottom, whatever 
shape is deeired in front; if 3 button, 4 button, or 
straight front or double breasted. 

Take a seam under arm down to pocitet, or take out 
^8 inch e.'ftra at G and M. 

Pocket is 12 inches below armhole, or 6 inches above 
full length of sleeve, from bottom of sleeve up- 
wards to armhole. This finishes draft for a usual 
form. 

Now I will explain 19. V to 19 is for a fat man, or 
any man measuring more around waist than pro- 
portion, which is explained in diagram 3. 

I will now explain how the vest is cut by the same 
draft as coat. 

Trace the coat draft onto a piece of paper the 
width of vest same as coat, only go under line at 
Q and go back 1 inch at 4, and go below >4 inch at 
A and 2; go below line under arm 1 inch and "g 
inch in front at O. 

II to R is 3 inches. 

D to 11 is J4 °f waist and 1 inch. 
V to 10 is I-4 of waist and 1 inch. 
Measure from A to 2, and L to 17, first button, and 

add 1 inch, and down to bottom of vest, full length, 

and IJ4 inch for^ a stitched vest, and 1 inch for 

binding. 
Shape front and sides, as shown. 
This way of cutting the vest saves half the time and 

half the work in cutting the garment. 



DIAGRAM 6. 




(19) 



Diagram 6. 



HOW TO DRAFT THE SLEEVE. 



Draw lines A to 5, and A to S. 

A to 5 is ^ of sleeve. 

Draw line down. 

A to B is IJ inch. 

A to C is J of armhole on division, and ^ inch. 

D to K is length of sleeve. 

5 to Z is 1| inch. 

Draw line to 8. 

Sweep from Z to B by F; and shape top of sleeve. 

O to B is 1 inch. 

8 to D is 1 inch. 

Shape from O to 8 as diagram. 

Place square at K and P, and draw line to S. 

K to S and is width around cuffs. 

L is width around elbow. 

Shape from A to S, and O to L. 

Go out 1 inch at D and K and in 1 inch at D and K. 

Shape as dotted lines. 

This finishes diagram 6. 



(20) 

Additional Explanations of Diagrams 
I, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6. 



I have already explained each diagram aod how to cut each one, but as we know it needs some experience 
to be a Fkillf'ul mechanic of any kind, it also requires some experience to be a good cutter; therefore I will 
give 8ome daiiy practice and practical experience with each diagram which will help a great deal to the one 
cutting by the system. As far as I have seen, I know of no system published that gives this additional work. 

Most of the works published on cutting start with a coat diagram, but as you will see my first diagram is 
a pants. We all start at the bottom and go upwards, and in this trade of ours we always learn the pants first, 
then the vest, coat, etc. So it strikes me that the proper vpay would be to explain the pants first. 

REMARKS ON THE PANTS. 

Now in regard to the pants, there is not much to be said ciijapt what has b?en explained in diagram 1. 

In cutting well-fitting pants, some care should always be taken in shaping the draft as you see the man is 
built. At H to 9 should be shaped and not follow straight line, as the pants will not fit so well. At D should 
be shaped in for about IV.' inch and come out short or long on hip, as customer is built. Z down to N should 
not be shaped in too much, as the pants will wrinkle around the thigh some. Between X to P should not be 
hollowed in more than ■'',1 inch, on fashionable pants. For spring bottom, or a narrow leg, take out more 
between X to P and add on to line from P to 7. In making, never let the tailor stretch them much between Z 
to R. At knee and bottom, always go out same on each side, front part. 

For a fat man, go in at D 1 inch and then forward with the measure J^ of waist on division and draw line 
from H to bottom on lice }n inch forward of O. Then shape to 9 and I, and draw line from 9 to 8, where line H 
crosses. H to A is the same as A to 8. Go in at X what you go forwards at 9, which measure will show 
when applied from 9 to K, and 9 to X, and 2 inches added. 

REMARKS ON THE VEST. 

The vest is cut the same as the coat, with the exceptionof a few points at L where I always go out *8 inch as 
I cut no stand on collar. It is not used on fashionable cutting. At Q I always go under line I4 inch to 5*8 
inch, as there is no wadding canvass or padding in the vest at this point like there is in the coat. At A and 2 
I po under line one large seam, or I4 inch, and at 4 I make back smaller from 4 to 2 one inch, and the same from 
L to Q. At O I go forward 'f^ inch, and under line at 11 1 inch. 

REMARKS ON THE COAT. 

In cutting the trocli coat, care should be taken in shaping sidebody from G to N, so as not to leave too 
much of a hump at back, and give it graceful shape at N and 10. Forepart at 11 is one seam longer than 
sidebody, and sidepart is two seams below line at 1, and one seam at 10. I to 7, crossing line B at 3, will 
always give correct width of back. There is no need of measuring the customer's back. 

K to 17, and K to V, is 2 inches for seams, but then I always go '.j inch forward at V, and then draw the 
line from 17 to V and V to bottom. For a slim man, never take off any in front at 18 and V, but take out 
at 11 and A, V, taking out on front part to make his correct measure. 

For a fat man, after adding J^ of his fatness in front at 19, go back 2 inches and draw line down about 11 
inches, and measure from this line back to 13. Half of seat and 1 incli added is usual. This is very import- 
ant to get his seat measure and balance. Button stand must be added at 19, but not at upper 18, as the draft 
shows a button stand added from 17 to 18, which is for both fat and slim. Any other information desired, 
can be obtained by personal instruction where I form classes and teach it. as I keep no school, but travel and 
form classes and sell the work. 



(21) 



Practical Remarks from Daily Practice as it Appears on 
the Bench, Cutting Board, and in Business. 



There are many things a cutter must know to be fitted for every branch of the trade. He should be a 
tailor from the first to the last. He should be a good salesman, a good business man, pleasing to customers, 
to his tailors who work for him, to his cutters, to his salesmen, if he employs any, never proud and with ever- 
lasting patience, the first at the office in the morning and last to leave in the evening. Never go out for dinner 
or supper, when customers are most apt to come in to see you. 

Now we cannot fill all these places at once, as we start out as cutters, but we can all acquire them little 
by little. I have myself practiced all these things, and at an early age learned tailoring on the bench. I 
learned my trade in Europe, and worked there as a journeyman tailor for many years for many of the finest 
tailors in that country, and at the early age of fourteen learned cutting, and practiced cutting on my own 
account, at different times taking orders and working for myself. But being young, I wanted to travel and 
see the world, so I finally came to America where I have been working as a coat maker for Chicago's finest 
tailors for several years, and also in different parts of the Northwest, until I made up my mind I would prac- 
tice cuttinf; and follow it, as I always had a liking for that branch of the trade. This J did with great success, 
both as cutter, manager for tailoring business, and in business for myself. 

My work in preparing this system has taken me several years to perfect, and by using it in daily practice, 
I have, to my greatest satisfaction, accomplished the work for publication. The ladies" system is alone a piece 
of work that cost me three years' study, and can cut the most perfect-fitting ladies' garment by it without a 
try-on, as with the gentlemen's. I hardly ever try on a garment until seams are sewed, and nine times out of 
ten without an alteration. 

Now we can fit a customer, but not always please him, though you may be the best cutter in the world. 
But never lose patience with a customer. You may be ready to fly into pieces, but never thow it to a customer, 
and it will be to your interest whether you are a cutter or a boss. Try to please him, if ever so "cranky"; try 
and try again and when you win him he is your best customer. But one thing: Get your prices out of him. 
Never make him a lower price; rather let him go; he will come back and pay your price if you have pleased 
him, because nobody else can please him any better. If you work for a "cranky" boss, never talk cross, or act 
mean when he tells you anything, but answer freely when in a pleasant mood, and in a way to please him. 
You will be in his favor and make more money by so doing. It you want to quit your job, do so without 
quarreling, and the boss will think much more of you. 

Now if you are in business and have people working for you, be to them as you wish them to be to you. 
Speak well to them and they will do things right for you, work cheaper, do better work — do all to please you, 
rather than to leave their job, even if a bigger salary is offered them. It is necessary to keep good tailors to 
succeed in business and they are very hard to get at times when you need them. Do all to your own interest. 
Keep a good man — when you have him it pays. 

This is my own daily experience, and may be of some value to the reader. I have myself made hundreds 
of dollars by using the above method, and lost as many more by not knowing it until of late years. 

Yours truly. 

The Author. 



DIAGRAH 7. 




(23) 



Diagram 7. 



HOW TO DRAFT LADIES' WAI5T GARMENTS. 



To draft, draw line down from A to E, and from A 
to 12. 

A to C is '^3' of upper shoulder measure. 

B is half way between. 

Draw lines B and C. 

C to O is },2 of lower shoulder measure. 

C to K is i.> of bust. 

K to 17 is 2 inches for seams. 

17 to 18 is 1 inch always. 

Draw lines O, K, and 17 as shown. 

A to 2 is ig of bust measure, with addition from 
K to 17. 

P to L is 1 G of bust, with addition. 

Go back 1 inch at O to I, and draw line from 2 to I, 
as shown, crossing line at 3. 

Draw line down at 3 to M. 

3 to 4 is 1 inch. 

3 to 5 is 13-4 inch. 

Shape from 2 to 4. 

Measure from A to 2 and O to L, your length of strap 
measure, and '.j inch. 

Draw line from L to B. 

L to Q is the same as from 2 to 4. 

Shape as shown. 

Go forward line O 1 inch, and under at 7 1 inch. 

Measure A to 2 and L to X, the measure around the 
neck. 



Shape L to X, as shown. 

Go below line i;,' inch at A. 

A to D is length of waist. 

D to W is IJ^ inch for fashionable waist. 

A to E is full length. 

Draw line D 

D to 6 is '4 inch. 

6 is I'j inch wide. 

Take out 1 inch between 6 and Z. 

Z is 1-G of bust, no addition. 

Take out 1 inch between Z and 10. 

10 is 1-6 of bust, no addition. 

Take out 1 inch between 10 and 11. 

Divide balance of waist measure between 11 and V, 
into 1 or 2 darts. 

Allow seams at waist for each and every piece. 

5 to G, take out J^ inch. 

G to M is 16 of bust, no addition. 

7 is half way between M and O. 
Shape all pieces as shown. 

17 to 20 is i^2 to 5 inches for double breasted front. 

V to 20 is same as from 17 to 20. 

In shapiny front from X to V, go out '.,' inch at V. 

V to 19 is tor a fat lady, or I3 of every inch the waist 
measure is over proportion, which is 11 inches 
less than bust measure always, and add balance 
in side seams. This finishes draft 7 



DIAGRAM 8. 



\ 




\ 



. 1 



:v. 



(25) 



Diagram 8. 

DRAFT FOR LADIES' SLEEVE. 



To draft draw line from A to 5, and A down. 

A to B is 1 inch. 

A to C is \ of armhole on division, 

A to 5 is h of nnnliole. 

Draw line 5 to K. 

F is half way between C and U. 

B to O is 2 inches. 

5 to Z is l':l inch. 

Sweep from B to Z by F. 

Draw line fiom Z to 8. 

i) to K is full length of sleeve, taking in inside seam on sleeve. 

Place square on F and K. 

Draw line to 8. 

K to S is width around caff. 

Go iu 1| inch at L, tlien measure yjur widtli of elbow. 

8hape as shown. This will finish the draft. 

HOW TO DRAFT A WIDE OR LEO OF MUTTON SLEEVE. 

P is half way between K and S. 

Sweep from B to R by P. 

Now measure your width desired at top from 5 to R. 

7 is half way between. 

Sweep S to R by 7. 

S to R is same as S to O on undersleeve. 

This finishes the large sleeve. 

Cut with undersleeve or without, as your style calls for. 



(26) 



Addition to Diagram i. 




This cut shows different kinds of unusual Trousers Pockets which are sometimes called for by 
customers, and which were made a great deal on Dress Trousers years ago. 



(27) 




Addition No. i to Diagrams 
I, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6. 



AN EASY LAYOUT FOR A SUIT OF CLOTHES, 

38 Breast, 32 Leg, and cut out of three 
yards regular 54 = inch goods. 



Now this .represents a sack suit, but a three-button 
frock will cut just as easy out of same length coat, not 
exceeding 33 inches iu length. 

This cut is only a facsimile of our every-day practice 
when we are cutting. There are hundreds of other 
different ways to lay out a suit of clothes, but this book 
would not allow space to show all the different ones. 
This is a starter, and will help in cutting your own suit, 
or for your friend if nothing more. Knowledge is the 
power in all things. 



(28) 



Addition No. 2 to Diagrams 3, 4 and 5. 



This Diagram represents a 

Canvas cut ready 

for making. 

This cauvas is cut crosswnys 
not lengthways, and is used for 
frock coats mostly, as for sack 
and overcoats the canvas would 
be too short in cutting it tliis 
way. The object in cutting the 
canvas across the goods is to get 
more elasticity in the canvas, and 
to keep the front from falling 
back in pleats after the coat is 
worn a while. It also makes a 
better lapel and shoulders, as 
you see there is only one V 
taken out in the shoulder. This 
V will give breast shrunk in at 
H H, give it ease at L to M, 
and at G to F, and keep the 
shape in shoulders after the 
garments are worn for some 
time; only cut this V down 
opposite M. 

Shrink up at O to P, or put 
in V, as would be required of a 
large breast. The stay tape is 
put on from N to B, and B to 
E to C, down in to the skirt 
part of the coat. I do not claim 
this is the only way to cut a 
canvas but I have found this a 
very good way, and suggest that 
you try, and judge for yourself. 
There are many good tailors, 
but we could be better by ex- 
changing with each other ideas. 




Addition No. 3 to Diagrams 4 and 5. 



(29) 




This diagram represents the Collar and Lapels of coat as it appears iu work. It shows the 
correct way to run the lines in padding the collar and lapels. This way of runuin" the lines 
will roll the lapels and collar very nicely. To get a nice lapel the lines should be close 
together, and not get the canvas too full between lines so as to make creases on canvas when 
pressed, but enough ease should be allowed on canvas so as to roll the lapel nicely. 



(30) 



Addition No. 4 to Diagrams 4 and 5. 



These three cuts represent the edges of the coat as they appear in work, and how to get a 
thin edge on a stitched garment. 




Cut 1 shows edge seamed and seam pressed open. A is facing; B is stay tape; C is canvas. 
A is sewed onto front of coat; B meets even with seam after it is pressed open and trimmed ofif; 
A is facing, and is trimmed off so as to meet between B aud C, or in the middle on the tape. 







Cut 2 shows A, B, C, after it is turned over aud basted; A is facing turned over; B is'stay 
tape; C is canvas. Baste easy, not pulling the thread too hard so as to make the edge crooked. 
Pains should be taken to press the edge straight. 




Cut 3 represents the edge finished, with a stitching either by hand or machine. To press 
the edge, take a wet sponge cloth and just press light enough to steam through edge. This will 
even the edge, aud then use farmer satin for dry-pressing the edge. Linen is not very good. It 
gives a hard gloss, and will often burn your garments. Silesia is better and safer. 



(31) 



Works on (putting 



^^^^^ 



Welander's Perfected Combination System 
On Cutting Gentlemen's 
And Ladies' Garments. 



WELANDER'S PERFECTED TROUSER SYSTEM 

WELANDER'S PERFECTED VEST SYSTEM 

WELANDER'S PERFECTED COAT SYSTEM 

WELANDER'S PERFECTED LADIES' SYSTEM 

The above Combined Works $10.00 

The above works will be sent on receipt of price. No books sent C. O. D. 

My system is taught by myself only, and by forming classes all over, where 
I teach the work personally. Where arrangements are made for the assurance 
of a class of from five to ten who wish to learn cutting, I will come and give 
instructions day or evening, or both, as may suit. 

I make a specialty of teaching my system in this way, and introducing it. 
I keep no school different from the above plan, but start schools when I have a 
class from five to ten, or more, wishing to take the system. 

When arrangements are made for a class, where I am to go any distance, 

a remittance is required as an assurance that the agreement is good. The 

amount can be agreed upon by corresj^ondence. 

Address all correspondence to 

A. W. WELANDEK, 

P. 0. Box, Red Wixg, Minn., U. S. A. 



(32) 



A. W. WELANDER, 



PROPRIETOR AND 
INSTRUCTOR OF THE 



"Perfected Combination 
System." 



(CoptrichtAppuced for. 



The Self-Instructions for this System are printed in the English, German and 
Scandinavian Languages, so as to make it 

EASY FOR PERSONS OF ANY NATIONALITY TO LEARN IT ON SHORT STUDY. 



TERMS FOR INSTRUCTIONS. 

For a Complete Course of lustructious on Trousers Diagram alone. . 

For a Complete Course of lastructions on Vest Diagram alone 

For a Complete Course of Instructions ou Coat Diagram alone 

For a Complete Course of lustructious on Ladies' Diagram alone.,. 
For a Complete Course of Instructions ou the above works combined 
For Coat, Vest, and Pants 



$1.5.00 
15.00 
25.00 
25.00 
70.00 
50.00 



The tuition ou the above works must be paid in advance iu all cases. 
Address all correspondence to 

A. W. WELANDER, 
P. O. Box, Red Wing, Minn., U. S. A. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 964 942 4 



A 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 964 942 4 • 



HoUinger Corp. 
pH8.5 



